If you’ve not heard of Madeira before, you’re not alone.
Three friends and I were desperate for a cheap surfing holiday so grabbed a map, randomly picked a surf-tastic swell in the Atlantic and hunted down the nearest airport. It turned out to be in Funchal, the cramped capital of this sleepy volcanic rock which shelves straight into the ocean.
Popular with older travelers because it’s hot and rain-free almost all year round, we were warned Madeira could be light on entertainment and more than a bit touristy. But, if you avoid the stacked apartment complexes and venture west along the coast, things can get a whole lot more adventurous.
Just remember to book a hire car, always self cater and be prepared to brave some treacherously steep roads.
Here are a few ideas to get you started:
1. Surfing at Paul Do Mar
Madeira isn’t exactly what you’d call beach holiday material. Being an island off the coast of Portugal it’s all jagged cliffs, banana plantations and cloud-topped mountains. That doesn’t mean you can’t don a wetsuit and hit the surf though.
Paul Do Mar is a rocky stretch on the southern coast popular with local surfers and the odd pro who has made the trip to find out whether the town’s reputation for perfect waves really is true. It is, unless you’re very unlucky and get a rare calm day.
2. Walking the levadas
Madeira’s levadas are a unique stone aqueduct system that filters water from the mountains down to the island’s towns and villages and provides some hydroelectric power to boot. Not just ingenious, they’re also stunning and carve steep scenic walks into the gnarled peaks while transporting water back down below the cloud level.
Understandably the climate is much cooler up in the mountains and it can be pretty tricky going so pack a coat and wear decent walking shoes. Luckily there’s fresh water in constant supply in case if you forget to bring a drink.
3. Whale watching off the coast
As Madeira is such a small island, wherever you stay you are almost guaranteed a sea view – in fact, don’t bother staying somewhere without one, you’ll have been cheated.
4. The very windy drive to Porto Moniz
Porto Moniz is often touted as the most scenic spot in Madeira. Not for its promenade which is mostly a mix of ugly concrete parking lots and half-finished apartment high-rises, but for its natural swimming pools. Hugging the coast, pools have been formed thanks to craggy lava rocks. They spill over with sea water and are perfect for plunging into.
5. The ultimate seafood barbecue – complete with agricultural rum
Forgetting the cake and the wine, Madeira isn’t exactly famed for its cuisine. While on the Portugal mainland you’d be loading up on spicy piri-piri chicken and drinking your body weight in rich red wines or port (or sangria if you’re visiting the Algarve in high summer), in Madeira you’re much better off shopping for fresh fish and seafood and rigging up a barbecue yourself.
If you’re stuck for a quick snack, toasted chicken sandwiches are on almost every café menu and are reliably lathered with mayonnaise. Also, if you’ve had enough Madeira wine (think port, but stronger) try agricultural rum, otherwise known as Rum Agricola da Madeira. Made from sugar cane, you’ll find it in all good, and not-so-good, supermarkets. Best drunk in shot-form, it’s utterly lethal, will scorch your throat and burn your insides, but seems to be a favorite with all true Madeirans.
